Written by Amanda Vlavianos
Jackson Wiederhoeft has hit the ground running. After three years designing for Thom Browne, it has been barely one year since presenting his first solo collection, “Spooky Couture” for emerging brand, Wiederhoeft, and just one season post first on-calendar presentation, “The Music Box. During his time at Parsons, the designer won “Womenswear Designer of the Year” for his thesis collection “The Dollies” in 2016, and his designs went on on to be featured in publications like CR, V Magazine, and Vogue Hommes; a recipe for success, if you ask us. This is all before mentioning Jackson’s custom pieces for celebrities like Rihanna, Lil’Kim, and most recently, Lady Gaga – he dressed the pop star in a pink bow-bedecked costume for her Stupid Love music video. For his SS21 collection, “Mother Goose and All Her Silly Little Friends,” premiered on Runway360, not long after a surprise bridal release of the summer. Needless to say, the young designer has been busy.
The Wiederhoeft brand is self-described as “a sense of modern nostalgia” with overarching themes of fantasy and buffoonery, with focus on dance and theater. Wiederfhoeft collections have certainly proved theatrical, and true to form, the SS21 collection debuted with “wildly colourful scenes of bamboozlement” in a highly original format of a comic book. In reimagining the classic Mother Goose tales as comic book superheroes, a truly fun collection emerges.
Jackson designed this collection in particular for Instagram, not for the runway, as he anticipated that most people would see it on the social media platform anyway, and he had second thoughts about creating this collection at all.
As for our favourite looks from the collection, it’s difficult to choose. Little Bow Peep may have lost her sheep, but certainly not her sense of colour, with layers of tulle, as a fuchsia pink underskirt and an orchid purple top made of oversized bows, complemented with neon blue hair and matching blue sequin and feather accented nude sleeves. Little Miss Muffet also wears a corset, but this one is green and accented in purple, literally from head to toe, accompanied by the spider who scared her in black lace and leather, with a pop of orange, via her own corset. Jill, who came tumbling down and Jack (the nimble and quick one who jumps his own candlestick) also make appearances, both en pointe – a node to Wiederhoeft’s commitment to dance among his collections. A look we truly do adore? The little girl with the little curl right in the middle of her forehead; a metallic green skirt made entirely of bows trickling down to poofy layers of organza to create a mermaid effect, accompanied by a sheer corset blouse, complete with a high collar and bedazzled bows covering her chest. An accessory queen, she sports an oversized (that’s an understatement) silky-satin, feathered green hat. We also can’t forget the star of the show: Mother Goose clad in a sheer, all-white ensemble, goose feathers springing upwards to accent not only the pencil skirt, but throughout the look. It’s complete with additional feathers bunched in pom poms down the back of the dress and crystals embroidered throughout.
Although the brand is new on the block, Wiederhoeft’s collections are easily distinguishable: whimsical, over-the-top, and all around fun. This season in particular, fashion can certainly appreciate a bit of fantasy. Reverting back to childhood tales has proven a worthwhile quarantine activity for Jackson Wiederhoeft, who creatively spun those tales into colourful looks for his collection. Besides the clothes, the comic book is available for purchase and will profit the Asase Yaa Culture Arts Foundation – a foundation that benefits youth performing arts and education. We’ve already ordered our copy of the comic book – have you?